Tsukiji Unitora Nakadori – Japan
One of the world's best places to learn about sea urchin - including different types
Since 2018, Tokyo’s Tsukiji Market – commonly known as the Tsukiji Fish Market – ceased to be the world’s largest wholesale fish and seafood market, ceding that title to the city’s newer, purpose-built Toyosu Market. Over the next decade, the former site will be developed into a multipurpose stadium complex, but until that happens, seafood restaurants and small businesses will continue to operate on the “outer market” streets nearby.
While Japan as a whole is the ultimate “uni-versify” for those who want to learn about different types and preparations of sea urchin, known as “uni” in Japanese, one restaurant is particularly compelling in that regard. Operating down a corridor in the outer market, Tsukiji Unitora Nakadori can be identified by either the line leading to its front door or signage depicting huge seafood bowls overflowing with the soft orange shellfish meat. There will be a wait to get in, and that wait will involve standing in a narrow passage next to other restaurants, kindly not blocking other businesses’ doors as directed, and waiting until your group is told that several of the very few seats are available for you.
At that point, you will have the opportunity to sample five regionally distinctive uni variations from different parts of Japan, and though they may not each be from different regions, and you needn’t have five (fewer or more are available), the fact that so many types of sea urchin exist will be interesting in and of itself. Their differences will be akin to sampling Diet Coke, then Coke, then Pepsi, then Diet Pepsi, then Coke Zero in sequence – not imperceptible, but not so different that you can describe the tastes as being other than slightly more delicate or briney or concentrated. Unless, of course, you’re an uni sommelier, in which case, go off.
At other locations throughout Japan, you can experience uni croquettes, uni atop A5 wagyu or grilled eel, and of course uni sushi. Unlike some Japanese foods, it is neither fundamentally different from nor better than uni in the United States, but the diversity of combinations and preparations here is incredible. This is the best country to develop a lifelong taste for this delicacy if you haven’t already, as no place we’ve visited in Japan serves it in less than fresh form, which is critical to earning it a place in your palate.
Stats
Price: $$-$$$
Service: Counter/Table
Open Since: 2002
Addresses
4 Chome−10−5 Kaneshin Fisheries Building 1F
Tsukiji, Chuo City, Tokyo, 104-0045, Japan
81 3-6228-4693
Instagram: @unitora_official