Taco Maria
One of California's top Mexican restaurants closed after 10 years, but promises to return with more seats
Prior to the pandemic, Chef Carlos Salgado’s Taco Maria was basically unstoppable, effortlessly switching between serving some of the best tacos and most beautiful elevated Mexican dishes anywhere in California. From a small (28-seat) but nice space at SoCo Collection, a Costa Mesa shopping plaza known for luxury home goods, Salgado earned a Michelin star, James Beard Best Chef: California finalist recognition, and additional local and national acclaim.
We say “earned” because our meals at Taco Mario included items that were not only perfectly executed, but noticeably better than anything comparable we’d previously tasted. Tacos made with blue corn tortillas did more than look special — by choosing and properly handling ingredients, Salgado was able to make incredible Tocino pork belly tacos that smelled and tasted like soft bacon. Similar skill led to stunningly smoky Camarones a La Diabla (chile mojo prawns), sweet and tart bay scallop Aguachile, and rich, chocolatey Mole de Pato (Muscovy duck with date mole), all excellent. Even the beverages, such as a cherry/strawberry/hibiscus Agua Fresca, were among the most intense organic drinks we’ve tasted anywhere. And service was consistently excellent – friendly, accommodating, and unpretentious, words that are sometimes but not always associated with buzzy Michelin destination.
Not every meal or dish was perfect. For instance, the appetizer-sized but entree-priced Tostada de Cangrejo (dungeness crab) was unremarkable, as were the Champiñones con Ortigas (Maitake mushrooms). Even for our group’s biggest vegetable fan, the Tlacoyos de Haba – a salad-ish collection of greens, English peas, refried fava beans, hoja santa, and pistachio crema atop semi-soft ground blue corn – was too bland. And as desserts, a Pastel de Piloncillo (cake with frozen vanilla custard) was merely good, while a beautifully presented Panna Cotta was overly basic given the ambition of the best savory courses.
In 2023, Taco Maria unexpectedly closed after 10 years in the same SoCo Collection spot, and Salgado told the LA Times he planned to roughly double his seating capacity, add a bar, and increase working areas. Earlier, he had contemplated revising and narrowing Taco Maria’s concept, so it’s unclear at this point what will and won’t be resurrected when the restaurant reopens in its new location. Given Salgado’s track record, we are anxiously awaiting news on Taco Maria’s reopening, and look forward to experiencing it again, wherever and whatever it may be.
Stats
Price: $$$
Service: Table
Open Since: 2013
Closed (Temporarily): 2023
Addresses
3313 Hyland Ave.
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
Instagram: @tacomaria