Sushi Koto

Made-in-Japan-class chirashi, sushi, and other delights, hidden in a Fountain Valley plaza

In this era of social media addiction, people tend to be “influenced” to visit restaurants rather than discovering them organically, and places without social media accounts become all but invisible without significant in-person word of mouth. That’s why our discovery of Sushi Koto felt so special: We randomly came across this thoroughly and traditionally Japanese restaurant while driving through its Fountain Valley neighborhood, then enjoyed memorable meals that still stand out locally.

Previously known as Sushi Mimi before changing its name to Sushi Koto in 2009, this restaurant has long been famous for its chirashi – sushi chef-curated and artistically presented predecessors to Hawaiian poke bowls, using a combination of premium ingredients assembled using more than ice cream scoops. Either nodding to trends or trying to keep itself in the discussion, Koto sells a poke bowl for $21.50, approximating $15 alternatives offered elsewhere. (Note that it doesn’t seem to need to lower its standards to keep seats filled; because of the excellence of its sushi, Koto is or was on the short list of local restaurants patronized by Shuhei Ohtani and his former interpreter, who apparently worked at the restaurant some time ago.)

There are at least 10 chirashi options here, including the deluxe Hakodate Don we ordered (shown above), which goes for $39.50 and includes Japanese scallops, toro fatty tuna, sweet shrimp, and multicolored roe, as well as other premium fish, plus a separate bowl of miso soup. We also ordered deep-fried oysters, a Japanese specialty, which were perfectly panko-crusted and crunchy outside, bursting with lightly briney flavor inside. But they weren’t necessary; nor was the (good) miso soup, or the Japanese citrus gelatin-red bean-matcha-cream dessert we finished with.

Had we ordered nothing more than the Hakodate Don, it would have been enough to fill one person – and one of our most memorably luxurious sashimi experiences, so superior to any bowl of poke that we’d separate them into “steak” and “burger” categories. While the presentation of the Hakodate Don bowl lacked for some of the glossy box lacquer and gimmicky showmanship found at some LA-based chirashi specialists, there were no compromises in flavor, diversity of ingredients, or portion size, as there shouldn’t be given that it’s around twice the price of a very filling poke bowl.

Impressed by our chirashi experience, we made reservations at Sushi Koto for a special event – Osechi Buffet Brunch, an all-you-can-eat meal with two seating times, held on New Year’s Day 2023. For $90 per person, the Osechi brunch included access to roughly two dozen different authentic and sometimes locally obscure Japanese items, ranging from natto, beans, and pickled lotus roots to mini chirashi cups, full-sized nigiri, cut rolls, and giant pieces of sashimi – the latter presented in a bowl with a giant, iced fish head – plus celebratory champagne. We attended the first seating, which was a completely packed house, as well as an opportunity to sample many delicacies in one place.

Rather than restricting itself to the New Year, Koto began offering a Sunday brunch option once per month, including similar food offerings and champagne, beer, and soft drinks – for $74 per adult. We haven’t tried this yet, but it’s on our list as a special occasion option, and if it’s anything like the prior version, it may actually be worth the splurge.

Stats

Price: $$$
Service: Table
Open Since: 2009

Addresses

18120 Brookhurst St. Unit 25
Fountain Valley, CA 92708

714.964.0988

Instagram: @sushikotooc