Sugarfish

A temple to high-quality sushi, served primarily omakase style in Newport Beach

Twenty years ago, one of L.A.’s most famous sushi restaurants occupied a cozy spot in a cramped Studio City plaza: Sushi Nozawa was known for its incredibly fresh fish, authentically Japanese sushi-making techniques, and all but mandatory “trust the chef” omakase courses. In the era when Seinfeld’s “Soup Nazi” was famously abrasive with customers, Chef Nozawa personally prepared and handed guests individual nigiri pieces with perfect melt-in-mouth temperatures and textures; on the other hand, he refused to make Americanized California Rolls, told customers not to mess up the properly seasoned taste of each piece (“one bite, no adding soy sauce”), and reputedly pushed even celebrities out for entitled behavior.

Today, Nozawa is retired, but his omakase options live on in Sugarfish, which started as a chain in LA before opening its first Orange County location in Newport Beach/Corona Del Mar. Sugarfish’s “Don’t Think, Just Eat” omakase is designed to most closely resemble the version Nozawa served years ago – and remains reasonably priced for good sushi – but there are also less expensive options.

And while the temperature balance is a little different than Nozawa’s – the rice is served at nearly body temperature, with generally cold fish – the protein quality is stellar. Note the pieces of pink lobster, the thin layer of seaweed hidden on the sesame-dusted salmon, and green shiso leaf peeking through translucent sea bream, each delivering locally uncommon flavors and plating. Sugarfish also offers live shrimp, perfectly sauced eel, and varied fatty cuts of tuna and salmon. In most cases, the subtle but super-fresh fish flavors speak for themselves; in others, Sugarfish uses proven traditional Japanese ingredients to make its bites truly exquisite.

A year into this location’s opening, Sugarfish is a standout choice for sushi, ideally appreciated in its intended omakase format. Reservations are not available, so expect to wait for a table during regular hours, then to enjoy your meal enough to return with some frequency.

Stats

Price: $$-$$$
Service: Table
Open Since: 2008 (LA), 2024 (OC)

Addresses

2600 East Coast Hwy.
Corona Del Mar, CA 92625

949.652.7405

Instagram: @sugarfishbynozawa