
Sanukiseimen Mugimaru
So-so but reasonably priced Japanese udon and tempura inside Costa Mesa's Mitsuwa supermarket
Alternately known as Sanukiseimen Mugimaru (Costa Mesa, CA/Algonquin Heights, IL) or Mugimaru (Torrance, CA), this small chain of udon and tempura restaurants can be found inside select Japanese Mitsuwa supermarket food courts. In Orange County, the menu consists almost exclusively of udon noodle bowls with or without soup broth and toppings – pork cha shu, sliced beef, chicken, tofu, boiled eggs, and/or vegetables – plus a collection of self-serve a la carte tempura pieces. Generally, you choose an udon bowl with your preferred ingredients ($8-16), select tempura fishcake, shrimp, karaage, and veggies ($1-2 each) with tongs and paper plates, then find a table in the often crowded communal seating area.
If this sounds similar to the larger Japanese chain Marugame Udon, that’s accurate – though Mugimaru differentiates in a couple of ways. First, you can choose from a few additional items, including curry rice plates and onigiri rice balls. Second, immediately neighboring restaurant Don Don Tei is owned by Mugimaru, focusing on full rice bowls and soba noodles. They don’t use the same cash registers, but their menus and ingredients overlap significantly, and small groups can easily move from one line to the next to order different types of noodle or rice bowls.
The items we tried at Mugimaru were fine rather than great. Each of the key ingredients in “Katsu. Curry. Udon.” was underwhelming – small cutlets, plain noodles, and somewhat thin, warm but not hot curry – though the sub-$10 price before modifications struck us as reasonable by current standards. Individual shrimp, fishcake, and shishito pepper tempura tasted as if they’d been under a heat lamp for a while, but worked well with the ramen.
Mitsuwa’s food courts always offer numerous Japanese dining alternatives, and as places such as Hamada-Ya Bakery, Ren Matcha & Mochi, and Mochill Donuts & Coffee illustrate, quality varies from great to fine. Sanukiseimen Mugimaru is one of the fine options; we wouldn’t rush back for anything we’ve tried there, but wouldn’t say no to trying again if we were nearby and pressed for time.
Stats
Price: $$
Service: Counter
Open Since: 2011
Addresses
665 Paularino Ave.
Costa Mesa CA 92626
Instagram: @mugimaru_toritetsu_torrance/