San Laurel

In 2022, international celebrity chef José Andrés paused briefly during his World Central Kitchen humanitarian campaigns to open several new restaurants on the top floor of the Conrad Los Angeles – part of a Frank Geary design-focused downtown development called The Grand. Currently open for breakfast and dinner, San Laurel is a Spain-meets-California restaurant that tips its hat to past José Andrés Group restaurants America Eats Tavern and Jaleo without mimicking either. It’s more vegetarian or pescatarian than any current restaurant in JAG’s growing collection of concepts, as many dishes elevate California produce to starring roles.

Thanks to a culinary team led by Chef Jeff Chen, guests can expect superb service, tweezer-finished plating, and either occasional silences or audible gasps based on the high quality bites. Borrowing presentation tricks developed for Andrés’ Bazaar restaurants, Bergeron’s Secret Chest – a potent Mai Tai –  can begin the meal theatrically, with dry ice vapor covering your table, while a Spanish soup such as Ajo Blanco will arrive deconstructed with crabmeat visible in a gorgeous crab shell bowl, letting you watch as almond cream is poured tableside to complete the recipe.

Other plates are just beautiful; some may or may not be on the menu by the time you visit:

• Roasted Celeriac Carpaccio arrived thin sliced on a bed of noisette butter, with pine nuts and balsamic vinegar further punching up the neutral flavor
• Tomato Seaweed Salad, heavier on lettuce and heirloom tomato, but dusted with a sesame-furikake crumble
• The ethereal Coca Idiazabal, an Ines Rosales cracker topped with a mound of grated Spanish cheese, honey, quince, and flower petals
• Puréed Potato, a less fancy-looking but near-identically flavored version of Joël Robuchon’s famously buttery mashed potatoes, with “Parmentier oil”
• Grilled Baby Zucchini, beautifully garnished with micro flowers and served with za’atar and whipped labneh
• Sea Urchin with scallops, caviar, and gazpacho consommé – every individual ingredient just perfect, and better together
• “Beefsteak” Tomato Tartare, an almost candied, multi-textured tomato, olive, and cucumber mix enjoyed with romaine leaves
• A mix of grilled and raw Asparagus with a light Romesco sauce
• The Grilled Romaine, full leaves topped with a Manchego espuma (modernist foam)

In addition to the excellent vegetarian and seafood small plates, there are also several entree-sized proteins including lubina (branzino) fish, beef, duck, and lamb, the latter perfectly cooked and cumin-balanced, served with carrots.