Renzo’s A Taste of Peru

Thanks in no small part to its chef’s outgoing personality, Renzo’s A Taste of Peru enjoyed two runs in Orange County: Initially opened in Irvine, the restaurant generated plenty of buzz across blogs and nascent social media from 2010-2012, when it abruptly closed, leading fans (including some local food writers) to hope for its resurrection. Their prayers were answered in October 2019, when Renzo’s reopened in Lake Forest. Unlike the original location, which was small and somewhat hard to locate, the new space had plenty of space, visibility, and ample parking.

Eating outdoors, we tried a swath of Renzo’s Peruvian menu, including the ceviche mixto, pan con chicharrón, lomo saltado, arroz con mariscos, and for dessert, alfagores la gringa and churros con dulce de leche. Although the eponymous owner was personally engaging during our meal, walking around tables and having conversations with guests, each of the items we tried was merely okay compared with other versions we’ve enjoyed both in the area (such as Costa’s) and elsewhere (such as China Chilcano). For instance, the ceviche was somewhat dry rather than soaking in leche de tigre, and their classic lomo saltado (combining steak, fries, onions, and tomatoes) was adequate, but not as intensely flavored and beautifully presented as the version at Vox Kitchen.

Renzo’s Lake Forest location quietly closed in 2023. The chef now offers catering services.