Phnom Penh Noodle Shack

In Long Beach, a Cambodian restaurant famous for its big, affordable noodle dishes

Phnom Penh Noodle Shack is as special as it is unusual. Its name is only partially accurate: Yes, it serves Cambodian food, and yes, it serves noodles almost exclusively, but no, it’s not a shack – the current name dates to 2012, referencing the restaurant’s original 1985 name and smaller footprint. Located between homes and apartments in a Long Beach residential neighborhood, the current incarnation could be confused for another house when driving by. Then you’ll spot some signage, and in all likelihood, groups of people milling around outside next to the Yelp waitlist tablet.

Once you find parking – sometimes an ordeal – and finish waiting for your table (expect 30 minutes to 1 hour during peak times), you’ll be seated in a very nice, middle class dining room with a small menu. The product of 40 years of refinement, its roughly 30 choices include noodle soups, noodle stir-fry plates, several types of rice porridge, and several bread-focused side dishes. While you’re not going to find a broader Cambodian menu similar to nearby Crystal’s here, pretty much every entree at Phnom Penh is either $14 or $16, versus $25+ at Crystal.

Half of the menu choices are variations on Phnom Penh’s most popular item, the “special” – the same Cambodian dry noodle dish with pork and shrimp served at Orange County’s Hu Tieu De Nhat and Trieu Chau, just with added stomach and liver. A bowl of piping hot soup typically comes on the side, for $3 more including a giant, fatty pork shank that can either be eaten or ignored as flavoring. If you want different proteins (beef, fish, chicken, seafood) or noodles (big or small rice or egg noodles, pin noodles), you can customize the dish how you like it, and use sauces at the table to add or multiply soy, oyster, pepper, and garlic flavors. Adding the hot soup to the noodle bowl is up to you; we prefer experiencing this dish dry, but some people enjoy mixing them together.

You can also choose from three types of stir-fried noodle dishes – one with oversized rice noodles and soy-oyster sauce (Me-Ka-Tang), one with thin rice noodles and fish sauce (Student Noodle), and one with uniquely bean sprout-shaped “pin noodles” and soy sauce (Loat cha). In each case, the chewy noodles tend to make more of an impact than the one- to two-note flavors, but the dishes are filling and worth trying. We’ve skipped the porridges, but you can choose from pork, chicken, fish, a mix, or meatless versions.

Across multiple visits, our take on Phnom Penh’s food has solidifed as “solidly good, especially for the prices.” Although we prefer Hu Tieu De Nhat’s dry noodle offerings – both in marinaded pork flavors and the ability to opt for glass noodles as a third choice alongside rice and egg noodles – Phnom Penh delivers fresh, sizable bowls that are otherwise nearly equivalent, and its stir-fried options are each Cambodian classics that deliver good value for their current prices. Its fried bread sides, including Chinese donut tubes and meat pies, are also pretty good.

We haven’t left a meal at Phnom Penh either hungry or thrilled: For us, it’s always good rather than amazing. But it’s a unique experience, with history predating most of its nearby competitors, and to the extent that you’re interested in exploring a menu broader than Hu Tieu De Nhat’s, consider making the drive up from Orange County to give it a shot.

Stats

Price: $$
Service: Table
Open Since: 1985, 2012

Addresses

1644 Cherry Ave.
Long Beach, CA 90813

562.433.0032

Instagram: @phnompenhnoodleshack