Oyamel Cocina Mexicana – Washington DC

When Washington DC residents think of superstar chef José Andrés biggest restaurants, they think first of his authentic Spanish tapas chain Jaleo, then about his Turkish/Mediterranean chain Zaytinya, and third a single Mexican restaurant named Oyamel. Opened back in 2004 in Arlington, Virginia before moving to DC’s Penn Quarter in 2007, Oyamel quickly became a city fixture, and later reportedly a favorite of President Obama and the First Lady, who dined in a semi-private area towards the restaurant’s back.

Oyamel is not anyone’s definition of “typical Mexican restaurant.” As non-native chefs go, Andrés’ pursuit of authenticity and fascination with imported ingredients rivaled Chicago chef Rick Bayless, who won awards for his widely admired Mexican spots. As Oyamel punched up vegetarian mushroom and pepper plates with guajillo and pasilla chilis, tuna ceviches with micro-crunchy amaranth seeds, and tacos with grasshoppers – a (fantastic) Oaxacan delicacy – it sparked interest in dark chocolate and pumpkin/epazote/green tomato moles. 

Good in its youth, Oyamel became great as it aged and refined both its recipes and menu. In addition to common chicken, fish, carnitas pork and mushroom/pepper taco options, the menu has featured quesabirria tacos – an export from Jalisco via Southern California – and grilled cactus paddles. On the ceviche side, black shrimp Aguachile Negro and the distinctively amaranth-dusted Tuna Ceviche remain spectacular, as well.