Okidoki by Meiji

At what point does a restaurant cease to be the same place it was when it was first named? That’s the question posed by Okidoki, a Japanese restaurant that dates back to 2008 in Tustin and even earlier in Costa Mesa, but no longer has anything in common with the menus that made it locally special.

Okidoki’s Costa Mesa location was a revelation, somehow blending Japanese small plates and sushi with both Vietnamese and Chinese influences into a single harmonious menu. Back in the early 2000s, the restaurant claimed to have a separate chef for each of its cuisines, and that was reflected in the food, which was individually culturally authentic – and a dynamite combination when put together. At some point, Okidoki’s great premise fell apart, and the Costa Mesa location closed permanently.

Years later, the Tustin location stripped back the Vietnamese and Chinese influences in favor of a more traditional Japanese izakaya menu, while adding some new dishes: Sea Urchin Udon, Miso Black Cod, Shoyu Ramen, and Cold Stewed Eggplant, among them. On our first visit, we really enjoyed everything we sampled. Then, on a return visit, the menu had shifted and simplified, seemingly focusing more on noodle dishes.