
Northern Cafe
In Irvine, numerous regional Chinese dishes, often rendered with strong mixes of spice and oil
Northern Cafe is on the relatively short list of “restaurants we want to love, but don’t.” With two locations in Orange County – both in Irvine, across from UCI and in Westpark next to H Mart – this authentic Chinese restaurant’s marketing suggests that it’s focused on xiao long bao soup dumplings (skip them), but delivers middling overall experiences and generally fine to good but very oily meals.
While their menus aren’t huge, they have a variety of Northern and Southern Chinese options: Both locations serve beef rolls, ro jia mo sandwiches, and pancakes, noodle soups, a variety of basic dumplings and wontons, a handful of appetizers, a dozen entrees, hot pots and soups. There are lots of fat- and chili-laden dishes to choose from, ranging from Sichuan mala hotpots and beef noodle soups to Chongqing chicken to sliced beef in chili oil, but also mild and/or vegetarian items including cucumber salad, pineapple chicken fried rice, and sauteed bok choy, green beans, or broccoli. The Westpark location adds a dinner-exclusive selection of Chinese-style grilled meats, seafood, and vegetables, as well.
While we were pleased with the variety of options and found some of the items intriguing, the dishes we ordered tended to be a little or a lot off. As just a couple of examples, pink lychee shrimp balls looked very distinctive but had no lychee flavor, while durian wrapped in crispy noodles was so oily as to mask the fruit’s famously funky smell, though edible. We would describe the food overall as “solid” and “competent,” never thrilling.
Apart from the decor of both restaurants, which effectively conveys a modern Chinese vibe, the experiences are pretty low on frills. At the UCI location, expect counter ordering and a somewhat DIY approach to service, while the Westpark location has more table service, but the hospitality level is low. After our second visit, our group was split on returning again, and we haven’t been back.
Stats
Price: $$
Service: Table
Open Since: 2004 (US)
Addresses
3831 Alton Pkwy.
Irvine, CA 92606
949.502.7111
Instagram: @yifengyuan_irvine