minibar by José Andrés

A Spanish chef sets the U.S. standard for intimate modernist tasting menu experiences

Arguably the brightest star in the Spanish chef’s growing restaurant empire, minibar by José Andrés’ is an avant garde chef’s table experience in Washington DC, typically seating 12 lucky diners twice per night for a 20+ course tasting menu. Originally opened in 2003 as a literally miniature bar counter with six seats inside the Latin American fusion restaurant Café Atlántico, this dedicated location opened in 2012 to expand the concept and availability. In minibar’s main dining room and open kitchen, each dish is finished and/or plated in front of guests, then served immediately; a private dining space without this experience can be separately reserved by small groups.

While its West Coast counterpart (é by José Andrés) is in “greatest hits” mode, new minibar Chef de Cuisine Jesús Serrano is offering a menu substantially different from ones we’ve experienced at minibar in the past. Edible “butterflies” and caviar-topped blinis made from beets recall treats served at Beverly Hills’ SAAM years ago, a liquid nitrogen-frozen cucumber salad rewires the brain with melting textures, and a translucent soy “chicharrón” is accented with sea urchin, then presented floating in the center of a chrome bowl.

Updated versions of prior mimetic tricks are used to create artificial asparagus, eggs, and clover leaves with unexpected textures, tastes, or temperatures. Whereas Andrés’s growing chain of Bazaar restaurants still use modernist magic to create delicate items and intriguingly plate others, minibar’s intimate setting and guarantee of immediate consumption enables the experiences to be faster and more intense – candles that burn twice as bright but half as long.

Our 21-course tasting was unsurprisingly mostly one- to two-bite experiences, with exceptions including giant scallops with miso and a long-beloved dippable shwarma, each so delicious that you might wish for fifth or sixth bites. Between the food, beverage pairings from the adjacent barmini, and profoundly attentive service, minibar remains a peerless modernist fine dining experience by U.S. standards, fully deserving of its Michelin recognition and more.

Stats

Price: $$$$
Service: Table
Open Since: 2003 (Original), 2012 (Current)

Addresses

855 E St N.W.
Washington, DC 20004

202.393.0812

Instagram: @minibarbyjose