Kizahashi at The Thousand Kyoto – Kaiseki in Japan

Artistic Japanese tasting menus cued to seasonal and hyperlocal natural delicacies

The thousand-year history of Japanese kaiseki is as complex and beautiful as the individual dishes and collective statements delivered during these meals. So it is appropriate, then to enjoy an authentic kaiseki meal inside The Thousand Kyoto hotel – a young and modern contrast with the historic and old-fashioned city, decorated in a timeless manner that could be described as minimalist, austere, or brilliant depending on one’s perspective. A moving piece of art in the lobby uses puffs of air to create the hotel’s logo from a floating net, and an impossibly wide indoor staircase leads to Kizahashi, one of many Kyoto restaurants specializing in kaiseki cuisine.

At Kizahashi, guests choose from one of three (lunch) or four (dinner) set menus cued to locally available, seasonal produce. Ranging from $50 to $130 at lunch or $65 to $130 at dinner, the collection of dishes typically includes an amuse bouche, appetizer, appetizer sampler, soup, sashimi, rice dish, and dessert, adding one additional course, substituting one or two courses, and including an aperitif at higher price points.

Cued to midsummer produce and proteins, our meal included poke eel and eggplant; sashimi; sea bass and miso, corn and fish paste, cucumber and plum; duck loin and perilla jelly; octopus, pumpkin and more; and a dessert of framboise mousse, fruits and sorbet. Every plate was beautiful, every item delicate, and most courses designed to be savored as pure, small portions until the filling rice course.

Kaiseki meals are artistic presentations, meant to celebrate nature’s ephemeral, cyclical, and hyperlocal bounties; they vary so much from chef to chef and location to location that you could try a new one each week and not have the same experience twice. This particular kaiseki was not as modernist or abstract as some we’ve enjoyed – more a cousin to an omakase sushi experience than an avant garde tasting menu – but it was wonderful nonetheless, as much for the setting as the content of the meal itself.

Stats

Price: $$$
Service: Table
Open Since: 2019

Addresses

570 2F The Thousand Kyoto
Higashishiokojicho, Shimogyo Ward
Kyoto, 〒600-8216, Japan 

81 75-351-0700

Instagram: @thethousandkyoto