
Heritage Barbecue
Justifiably famous for its smoked and barbecued meats, but the customer experience needs work
Founded in 2020 and unmistakably the product of its times, Heritage Barbecue simultaneously represents everything we love and hate about dining out today. It is at once locally unique despite a well-worn premise, serving smoked meats and sides that taste as superb as they look – and by barbecue standards, they look gorgeous – and as impressive at marketing itself as it is at preparing food. If you hadn’t heard of it before (and if you’ve lived in or researched Orange County, you probably did), social media guaranteed that you’d get learn the name through impressive collaborations with noodle gods Ramen Shack and dumpling masters Paradise Dynasty, each a great example of cross-marketing.
Each of the items on their short menu, including beef ribs, pork ribs, hot links, pulled pork, burnt ends, and brisket, is effectively its platonic ideal as seen through the lens of Texas barbecue. From the obvious penetration of smoke from their (local regulator-approved) on-site smokers to just the right levels of bark, fat, and meat on the ribs, their barbecued meats are basically unimpeachable – except, obviously, for the health concerns.
When there are specials, such as Kansas City burnt ends, duck banh mi, turkey torta, or sticky pork ribs, you can visit just to try them – and they’ll probably be great – but at a place where even dipping the base meats in barbecue sauce is unnecessary, novelty flavors are entirely optional. Apart from a charcuterie board, which we found to be only OK and has seemingly disappeared from the menu, all of Heritage’s standard items are just-right as-is, so if you’re looking for extra flavor, try the banana pudding. (Skip the cornbread.)
The only part of Heritage Barbecue we hate – with a passion – is the service experience, which has a Texas legislature-like level of contempt for basic human dignity, and a similar attitude: love it or leave it. So if you love standing out in the San Juan Capistrano sun for an hour or more, listening to loud country music, and watching people attend to gigantic meat smokers and grills in no particularly interesting way, you’ll be in good company here.
Thankfully, once you get up to the front of the line, service will be pretty friendly. Then you’ll have to hunt for one of too few tables and wait again for your food. You may be better off just ordering your food for pick-up, at which point you’ll see the prices, and wonder whether it’s worth paying $50 or $60 per person for a few pieces of meat and sides. (Note: A lot of time and labor go into the meats, so comparisons with supermarket beef and pork pricing aren’t fair.)
In our view, Heritage Barbecue’s food is so great that it’s worth the occasional splurge. Moreover, its collaborations with other local businesses – whether hosted at its own location or at others’ – have been memorable and impressive. But the “come and get it while it’s still here” service model would have better been left in Texas. Hopefully new locations and the original store’s planned upgrades will improve upon that aspect of the experience, because there’s otherwise a lot to love about Heritage Barbecue.
Stats
Price: $$-$$$
Service: Counter
Open Since: 2020
Addresses
31721 Camino Capistrano
San Juan Capistrano, CA 92675
Instagram: @heritagebarbecue