Fogo de Chao

America's best-known Brazilian churrascaria and steakhouse chain now has three OC locations

Across every part of the United States where it opened first – which is to say, major cities on both coasts and Texas – Fogo de Chao’s name is practically synonymous with Brazilian churrascarias, or steakhouses focused on skewer-grilled meats. From Beverly Hills to Washington DC, Fogo locations quickly won steady business by overwhelming guests with all-you-can-eat steaks, lamb chops, ribs, and bacon-wrapped items, which combined with a high-end salad bar to guarantee smiling faces and full bellies.

At a time when steakhouses were still quite popular in America, the national appeal of a twist on the theme was obvious – so obvious that rival Texas de Brazil popped up, aggressively pursuing markets where Fogo hadn’t opened, and cementing itself in many locations as either a leader or second-place alternative.

Fogo waited a long time to come to Orange County, and time wasn’t on its side. Debuting in November 2019, more than three years after Texas de Brazil opened at the Irvine Market Place, Fogo picked a more southern spot at the Irvine Spectrum Center, notably with somewhat less visibility and fancy decor than its earlier locations. It had a somewhat rocky opening, and only months later, the pandemic hit, leading to a challenging two years of mid-pandemic operation. As huge fans of Fogo dating back to its earliest days in Beverly Hills and Chicago, we paid full price to check out the Irvine location, and although the experiences were okay, we left each time somewhat disheartened.

Thankfully, Fogo has rebounded. As of our last visit, the Irvine location was roughly on par with nearby Texas de Brazil, which is to say good rather than fantastic, and not up to Fogo’s earlier, higher standards. Two other Orange County locations have opened, providing easy access to steak lovers in Huntington Beach and Brea, close enough to Disneyland.

Vistors familiar with earlier Fogo locations may notice that the once unapologetically Brazilian Fogo shifted some of its marketing to a more conventional steakhouse vibe: It began identifying cuts of meat as “N.Y. strip” and “ribeye” rather than using traditional Brazilian names, then added “indulgent appetizers” (shrimp cocktails, seafood towers) and “indulgent cuts” (tomahawk ribeye and wagyu steaks) as a la carte options for those with even larger budgets and appetites.

At the Irvine location, guests still enjoy all-you-can-eat access to 15 meats and four unlimited side items (cheese bread, mashed potatoes, caramelized bananas and polenta) during dinner – currently for a fixed price of $70 per person at dinner, or $51 for lunch, before tax and tips. Access solely to the salad bar remains available at a lower price, albeit without the unlimited shrimp and other frills that used to make the so-called “Market Table” so special.

Although we weren’t impressed on our pre-pandemic visit, service later became very good, and the flavors of most of the cuts we sampled were spot-on with classic Fogo – rich, tender, and properly seasoned, typically available at your choice of doneness upon request. The prime question now is whether you can eat enough to justify the current asking prices, which may be a challenge for all but the most meat-obsessed or price-insensitive guests. Our advice is to do as we’ve always done with Fogo: Come on a day’s empty stomach, and enjoy a little bit of everything. Despite all that’s changed over the years, Fogo is still a place where experimenting with food feels low-risk, fun, and sometimes even exciting.

Must-Trys

Picanha (top sirloin), bacon-wrapped steak

Maybe Skip

Chicken, polenta

Stats

Price: $$$
Service: Table
Open Since: 1979 (Brazil), 2019 (OC)

Addresses

623 Spectrum Center Dr.
Irvine, CA 92618

949.398.1500

Instagram: @Fogo