China Chilcano

Spotlighting Peruvian/Japanese/Chinese fusion cuisines, this DC spot is stronger on plating than flavors

Created by the José Andrés Group following the success of Las Vegas’s Chinese-Mexican restaurant China Poblano, Washington, DC’s China Chilcano celebrates Chifa and Nikkei cuisines – Peruvian fusions with Chinese and Japanese foods. Aggressively decorated with a fun, urban energy that has disappeared from the restaurant group’s more recent destinations, China Chilcano has always had aesthetics on its side, but in our experiences, its dishes and service haven’t always lived up to their potential.

The menu includes multiple ceviches, dumplings, rice bowls, buns and noodle dishes, which all sound familiar enough until you note that many are using Peruvian elements such as leche de tigre, sweet potatoes, and aji amarillo yellow chilis to deliver uncommon flavors. You  can’t go wrong with any of the raw fish ceviches or tiraditos, and one long-time menu superstar is the Aeropuerto, which combines both crispy noodles and fried rice with your choice of proteins – just in case you thought noodles and rice were necessarily separated rather than served together.

Dim sum recipes that debuted at China Poblano reappear here across hakao (har gow), siu mai, and wontons, while Peruvian meat-and-potatoes classics such as lomo saltado arrive at a José spot for the first time. Papas a la Huancaina, a creamy Latin potato dish delivered so delicately and impressively years ago at the South Beach location of The Bazaar, is comparatively bland at China Chilcano, one of several “this is just okay” items we’ve tried here. Similarly, semi-interesting desserts such as the kiwicha spiral cookie tend to look better than they taste, a rarity for a José restaurant.

We’ve also had more service hiccups here than at the restaurant group’s other locations. As a result, we’ve generally found ourselves dropping in for snacks here before moving onto another place – a way to experience the famous tapas chef’s multiple distinctive experiences nearby without committing to a full meal. This is a mistake at almost all of his other restaurants, but a fine way to sample China Chilcano’s best offerings before moving along.

Stats

Price: $$$
Service: Table
Open Since: 2015

Addresses

418 7th St. NW
Washington, DC 20004

202.783.0941

Instagram: @chinachilcano