
Capital Dim Sum Seafood Bar
One of Irvine's last remaining destinations for higher-end Chinese dishes and dim sum
Leveraging a long history dating back to the 1981-vintage Los Angeles restaurant Kim Tar Noodle House, Capital Seafood is a collection of Chinese restaurants that may or may not be a “chain” at this point: Three Capital Noodle Bar locations today confusingly share a website (capital-seafood.com) with each other but none of the Capital Seafood restaurants, which appear to be separately operated in Irvine, Garden Grove, and Rowland Heights. This article focuses solely on the Irvine Spectrum Center location, which is known as Capital Dim Sum Seafood Bar, and has a distinctively calligraphic logo that looks just like ones on the Noodle Bars. It opened in 2011, roughly 15 years after its relative in Garden Grove.
As its full name suggests, the Spectrum version of Capital combines a large paper dim sum menu – lunch specials on the back – with an even larger laminated traditional Chinese soup, entree, and drink menu, covering virtually all of the expected bases. A spacious, well-decorated dining room and bar area strongly resemble the now-defunct Irvine location of Sam Woo Seafood, including a separate bar area near the front, a charmingly abacus-laden cashier’s counter off to the side, and a set of sliding panels that can create a semi-private section for the large dining area.
Unlike 95% of the area’s Chinese (and other) restaurants these days, Capital maintains tablecloths on tables, well-dressed servers, and price points in the Meizhou Dongpo range. Appetizers and soups are commonly $17 and up, most entrees start at $24, and seafood options float around $28-$30, climbing to $39 or more for higher-end ingredients. Similarly, while dim sum start at nearly $7 per “A” plate, most are “B” or “C” plates at $9 or $10 each, with several “S” options at $11. The “lunch special menu,” you may learn after it’s been handed to you and you’ve attempted to order, is not available on a Saturday or Sunday, but you can have most of its items by adding $4-5 to their listed prices.
On our visit, there was no cart service – orders were placed using a pencil and checkmarks on the paper menu – and apart from the nice decor, no frills. Almost everything we ordered, including scallop and shrimp dumplings, crab meat dumplings, and beef spare ribs with pepper sauce, came out so quickly that we knew it hadn’t been cooked to order, and neither the temperatures nor flavors was particularly distinctive. The ribs arrived with a separate pepper shaker, and had very little black pepper flavor without using it. Fried seafood mochi dumplings had a lighter but more obviously scallopy flavor than typical “footballs” served elsewhere, wonderfully crispy and soft but with too little meat inside, while shrimp egg rolls were full of shrimp but just a little over lukewarm in temperature, like semi-wilted triangular BBQ pork croissants. And an $11 “Royal Soup Dumpling” arrived as just a gigantic ball of bland minced meats and seafood pieces wrapped in a noodle, less royal in flavor than size.
Given the recent scarcity of higher-end Chinese restaurants in Orange County, Capital’s menus and overall design stand out enough that we’d be willing to consider another visit to explore some of the non-dim sum offerings. That said, dim sum aficionados willing to drive to Westminster will find better options at Seafood Cove 2 or Seafood Paradise.
Stats
Price: $$-$$$
Service: Table
Open Since: 1996 (OC)
Addresses
770 Spectrum Center Dr.
Irvine, CA 92618
949.788.9218
Instagram: @capitalseafood