Candlenut – Singapore

In Singapore, a singular opportunity to experience Michelin-elevated indigenous cuisine

As the world’s first Peranakan restaurant to receive a Michelin star – an honor it has maintained for eight years – Candlenut in Singapore offers an opportunity to experience elevated versions of some of the country’s indigenous cuisine in a nearly fine dining environment. Candlenut shares a building with several other businesses in Como Dempsey, a small plaza outside Singapore’s main shopping and restaurant districts, so upon entering the building, you may see a gourmet convenience store, a Japanese tempura spot, and a Jean-Georges Vongerichten restaurant before walking over to the open-air Candlenut space.

The primary way of eating at Candlenut is the “ah-ma-kase” tasting menu, curated by the chef-owner, which changes monthly and consists of 11 items at lunch ($82) or 13 at dinner ($105). Savory items will likely touch on themes including “satay,” “curry,” fruit and vegetable salad, fish, beef, and several local ingredients, such as sator/petai “stinky” beans, sweet-spicy chili lemak sauce, and candlenut, a highly oily nut that needs to be cooked to remove its toxicity. On the dessert side, expect pandan, coconut, and sago to play major roles, with only a small nod to chocolate.

Note that all of the portions, including a la carte items we ordered separately, were quite small: the images here typically show portions for three, which is to say one satay stick, one little rice ball, and one little kueh pie tee tart per person.

Our ah-ma-kase included dishes such as Sotong Masak Lemak (super tender baby squid), Kerabu Jantung Pisang (banana blossom salad), and Maimoa Lamb Neck Satay, and more; presentation used memorably colorful plates that were at least as impressive as the foods plated on them, though Candlenut’s overall garnishing and plating were strong. Since one year later, the savory and sweet options were substantially different, there’s no point in describing the flavors beyond to say that everything was pretty good, with no “a-ha” moments – notable in a country where we’ve had many such memories – and we still had room to sample additional desserts beyond those on the tasting menu.

Service was on the fine edge of what we’ve experienced at Michelin one-star establishments: proper and attentive enough, but not charming or warm. Meal pacing was reasonable, with tasting menu courses complete in an hour. In a country with an incredible array of excellent dining experiences, we haven’t felt the need to either return or crow about our visit to Candlenut, but we wouldn’t dissuade someone from trying it, either.

Stats

Price: $$-$$$
Service: Table
Open Since: 2010

Addresses

17a Dempsey Rd.
Singapore 249676

65.1800.304.2288

Instagram: @candlenutsg