Bonchon Chicken

Classic Korean fried chicken, nearly as crispy as it used to be

There will always be a special place in our hearts for Bonchon, one of the first two chains that introduced Korean Fried Chicken to the United States. We still remember our first visits to their NYC, LA, and Costa Mesa locations, the excitement of comparing them with rival Kyochon, and the special taste/texture sensations of their ultra crispy soy and spicy wings, which at their peak were just spectacular – equivalent to but different from the best Buffalo-style wings we’ve found anywhere. (And we say that with Buffalo roots.)

The world’s changed a lot since then. Bonchon’s Costa Mesa store stopped delivering chicken at that peak level of quality years ago, and never really recovered. Almost all of the area’s numerous franchised locations of both Bonchon and Kyochon evaporated, and various smaller chains popped up with their own Korean fried chicken recipes – more batter, heavier sauces, and less cooking time. Consequently, though there’s no shortage of Korean fried chicken these days, it’s hard to replicate the classic, awesome Bonchon experience.

Bonchon’s newer Fountain Valley shop is as close as OC gets to the original formula – and still compelling. On several visits, we’ve found their wings to be consistently nice and big, and although not quite as crispy as before, much faster at getting food on the table than years ago, when the wait was always 20 or 30 minutes from order to service. Bonchon says that it still double-fries its wings, which combined with rice powder batter to create the innovative extra-crispy texture.

Unfortunately, we’ve experienced variations from visit to visit and location to location. On our first Fountain Valley visit, the wings were surprisingly dry, and the flavors muted enough that we could barely tell the soy garlic from the spicy – we couldn’t get them to serve extra sauce to wet the wings down. On subsequent visits, the wings were plump and wet with enough sauce, and the service was friendly enough that any issue would have been resolved appropriately.

Bonchon has made minor changes to its formula to keep up with the times. Wings and drumsticks have been joined by boneless nuggets and chicken strips. After years of holding firm on offering only two sauce flavors, Bonchon added Yangnyeom, which effectively mixes the soy garlic and spicy flavors into a sweeter profile.

If you don’t want one of these flavors, you’ll be out of luck here, and might want to consider trying competitors Pelicana Chicken or BB.Q Chicken instead – each has a wider array of sauces, though with more heavily battered chicken.

Stats

Price: $$
Service: Table
Open Since: 2002 (S. Korea), 2017 (OC)

Addresses

1534 Adams Ave., B
Costa Mesa, CA 92626
714.852.3734

16177 Brookhurst St.
Fountain Valley, CA 92708
714.660.4557

Instagram: @bonchonchicken