
America Eats Tavern
The most daring American restaurant ever imagined went back in time, then disappeared
Now defunct, this brilliant Washington, DC José Andrés restaurant evolved from a temporary location in Penn Quarter to new spaces, first in Tyson’s Corner, Virginia and then in Georgetown, where it significantly changed its menu and focus before closing. It started life as an edible museum of American food in the nation’s capital, and ended its run as something more mainstream and less ambitious.
The original pop-up was dedicated to the history of American cuisine, opened in tandem with an exhibit at the National Archives, and celebrated long-forgotten recipes and trends from colonial and turn-of-20th-century sources – all updated with Andrés plating and other touches. Vermicelli-style Mac and Cheese, sous vide Buffalo Wings, and Peanut Soup were just a few small plate highlights, while classic and distinctive American cocktail recipes (milk punch, anyone?) from the past 200 years were similarly resurrected and spotlighted.
Planned only for a one-year stint, it remained open for an extra six months in its first location before relaunching inside a Ritz-Carlton in mid-2014, adding a limited, hotel-like breakfast service to stripped-down versions of the original lunch and dinner menus.
While the first location was repurposed from Cafe Atlantico, a Caribbean-American space that also housed the 6-seat experimental “minibar” that later became José’s highest-end and most exclusive dining experience, the Ritz location did away with historical touches – interior design and menu descriptions – that gave the original a sense of place. The Georgetown iteration was developed in partnership with a local restaurant group and leaned into BBQ with regional flavors, bringing brisket, pulled pork, and ribs into the mix.
Despite being shuttered by the pandemic, the America Eats Tavern idea (especially the original version) seriously deserves to be revisited. As a Spaniard with a voracious appetite for American history and culinary techniques, José’s dedication to exploring and adapting early American cuisine opened pathways others had long forgotten (multi-flavored catsups) or never considered (deconstructed pies). This concept could and should be touring the United States as a pop-up, bringing people closer to our common history while gently expanding heartland and coastal palates beyond tired basics.
Stats
Price: $$$
Service: Table service
Open Since: 2011
Closed: 2020
Addresses
405 8th St. NW
Washington, DC 20004
Instagram: @americaeatstvrn