Ajisen Ramen

The local story of Ajisen Ramen recalls a challenging and arguably sadistic quote often attributed to Marilyn Monroe: “If you don’t love me at my worst, then you don’t deserve me at my best.” When Ajisen was actually at its best, years ago, it evoked memories of Honolulu, Hawaii’s turn-of-century ramen shops, which so adroitly replicated multiple classic Japanese broth styles that competitors focusing on merely one or two seemed comparatively basic.

In addition to its own delicious innovation, black garlic ramen, Ajisen’s highly affordable menu nailed everything from tonkotsu, shoyu, and miso to curry and seafood ramens, while serving inexpensive appetizers (togarashi scallops, baby octopus, gyoza, fried oysters) and drinks. Its renditions were so strong that practically anyone could find something good or great to eat, and that went on for years.

…Until the quality fell off a cliff, at least locally. In the late 2010s and early 2020s, the Irvine location of Ajisen experienced such a steep decline that it was hard to reconcile with earlier experiences – dishes became inconsistent and occasionally bad. Conditions only worsened during the pandemic, which stripped the Diamond Jamboree dining room of any remaining energy. Even so, we returned on multiple occasions, trying to continue loving it through what was surely its worst period, until one meal came out lukewarm and so clearly neglected that there was no point in hoping for a turnaround. That location closed in mid-2023, making room for a Marugame Udon shop that is still “coming soon” as of late 2024.