A&J Restaurant

Irvine's old school Taiwanese restaurant rewards adventurous diners with delicious small plates

We’ve loved the decidedly Taiwanese and unpretentious A&J Restaurant since the first time we visited years ago, but openly acknowledge that it’s an experience best suited to two groups: People already familiar with Taiwanese food, and culinary adventurers who aren’t afraid to try things that may or may not match their expectations.

For years, A&J handed guests a pictureless, tersely translated piece of paper to order from, making it hard for new visitors to know where to start. In recent years, it introduced a menu with photos of many items, though the descriptive text alternates between overpromising and underpromising. As a result, dishes may be very different from what one expects, but in our experiences, the food is almost always delicious. Take for example the thousand-layer pancake shown above, which has an incredibly flaky texture – it’s not a pancake, but rather akin to shredded Indian roti bread, and unlike anything you’ll find at other restaurants.

Similarly “not love on first sight” items include dan dan sesame peanut noodles, which arrive so unadorned that you won’t realize they’re not just plain until you mix them with sauce hidden beneath; a fried pork chop that looks plain but packs strong, salty soy flavor; and a smoky black plum juice that was really unique. We can’t point to photos and tell people to confidently order these items – the proof is really in the flavors.

Over the course of many meals, we’ve fallen in love with A&J’s generically-named “pan fried pork dumplings,” which turn out to be wonderfully oversized logs of ground pork wrapped in blankety soft noodles. Like the spicy tripe, hot and spicy pork ears are sliced thin, served cold, and surprisingly compelling, while the beef tendon with garlic sauce is… well, slimy and chewy in a way that turned some of us off, while pleasing another.

In other words, not everything will be a hit with everyone. Those pursuing easy wins can stick to items found at places like Noodle Nest/Dun Huang or Paradise Dynasty, such as cold black bean marinated beef slices, beef soup buns, wonton noodle soup, spicy wontons, and cold chili cucumber. Aim for several small- to medium-sized dishes per person, which should be enough to fill most people up.

As we’ve said over the years, this is the rare restaurant that should give every new visitor a full primer – it’s the diametric opposite of many new restaurants that begin by asking guests whether they’ve visited before, then offering ordering tips, wanted or not. At A&J, exploration is typically rewarded, but a little too challenging, so while we certainly recommend giving it a try, we suggest a quick strategic glance at the menu online beforehand to minimize your confusion and maximize your enjoyment.

Stats

Price: $$
Service: Table
Open Since: 1971

Addresses

14805 Jeffrey Rd.
Suite D
Irvine, CA, 92618

949.786.3585

Instagram: @ajrestaurant