Galpão Gaucho Brazilian Steakhouse

Sure, it’s an interesting choice to begin an article on any steakhouse with a photo of “golden steak” – top sirloin wrapped in a sheet of thin gold leaf, sliced tableside, then finished on a hot block of Himalayan sea salt – but it’s an even more interesting choice for a Brazilian steakhouse to debut and spotlight such an item. For the last 25 years, Brazilian churrascarias have offered Americans all-you-can-eat access to premium grilled, skewered, and table-sliced meats, where servers dressed as Brazilian cowboys turn meat and potatoes into dinner (or lunch) theater. Does wrapping such steak in 24-karat gold really do anything for that experience?

Short answer: Yes. At a time when Fogo de Chao and Texas de Brazil hold near-universal local mindshare for Brazilian steak, Galpão Gaucho needs something to stand out – and though this gold steak idea was already attempted (with mixed results) by Salt Bae, this is as solid a gimmick as any. It’s included with Galpão’s meals for the AYCE cost of entry, $55 for lunch or $75 for dinner, and though it tastes wholly the same as the small chain’s other steaks, you get to eat some gold with your meal. And take pictures or videos. So have fun.

As the eighth restaurant in a small but growing chain, Galpão’s new location is long in the works, having replaced Irvine’s decades-old original churrascaria Agora, which closed last year. Only a minute by car from John Wayne Airport, the freestanding building with an old stone and wood interior remains largely intact; there are still cavernous dining spaces, a large, colorful cocktail bar, and an ample salad bar, all typical of Brazilian restaurants. Like Agora, we suspect Galpão is going to be a good place for straight-off-the-plane business meals and memorable dates: We found the service to be outstandingly attentive and friendly from start to finish – a good sign for any days-old restaurant, even one that’s part of an established chain.

The menu includes all the expected meats, with three good versions of picanha prime top sirloin (regular, garlic, and spicy), filet mignon, bottom sirloin, ribeye, several pork and chicken variants, sausages, and two types of lamb. Items that are stars elsewhere, particularly Brazil’s famously tender and fat-capped picanha, are not as amazing here, while Galpão unexpectedly overperforms on succulent bacon-wrapped chicken, citrus-crusted leg of lamb, and shrimp – an unexpectedly skewered version is included here as AYCE, rather than sold separately (as is now the case at Fogo). Grilled pineapple and honey-drizzled grilled blocks of white cheddar cheese are also surprisingly compelling.