Sugo

Roughly a year before San Francisco-based chain Slice House by Tony Gemignani opened its first Orange County location in Fountain Valley, the eponymous chef behind Newport Beach’s Bello by Sandro Nardone opened Sugo – a slice pizza parlor conveniently positioned between a 7 Eleven and a marijuana shop. Although it’s unclear why a chef known for Newport Beach fine dining (and multiple Michelin Guide notices) would want to personally garnish pizza squares at a tiny place in front of Costa Mesa’s Mitsuwa Supermarket, the local restaurant scene is better for this decision, as Sugo offers something Slice House doesn’t: artistry.

Unlike Slice House, which offers a semi-rotating menu of nine slice flavors per day spread across four different crusts, Sugo offers between 14 to 16 different slices each day with a single “Romana” crust. On our visit, the options included typical pepperoni and pepperoni/sausage (carnivore) slices, margherita and pear/gorgonzola flavors, and fusion pizzas ranging from the Hawaiian-style spam and pineapple Ono to a mayo-topped Japanese pizza, the Mexican-influenced chorizo pastor, and an eggplant-topped vegetarian caponata. A dessert slice, Nutella, was out of stock, as was a particularly creamy Amatriciana, though the menu appears to change somewhat from month to month.

Sugo’s service formula is somewhat unusual. When you get inside, you’ll see an ordering counter and seating for perhaps 10 people, in addition to a few mini-tables outside with several additional chairs. All of the day’s slices are on display behind glass, and only partially finished – the crust is baked, but the cheese and toppings aren’t. Up to two rectangular slices (each with two smaller squares) fit on a quarter sheet pan that is handed back to the kitchen after you order, baked again for around 10 minutes, then chef-garnished and handed over to eat with your hands. This process allows pieces to arrive with warm cheese, red sauce, and crust, as well as cool touches including wet pesto sauce, a squeezable lime, fresh arugula, or sliced proscuitto. Each slice ranges from $6.50 to $8.50, with most at $8, and full pizzas run from around $28 to $39, with occasionally more expensive options. Soda cans and beer bottles are also available.