
Arag Mongolian Cuisine
In Los Angeles, an opportunity to sample authentic Mongolian dishes
In the 1990s and early 2000s, “Mongolian” chain restaurants began popping up in food courts and plazas, alternating variously between “Genghis Khan” and “Mongolian Grill” branding. Virtually all of these places had the same idea: place a gigantic circular skillet in an open kitchen, let people choose noodles, proteins, vegetables, and sauces they want, then theatrically stir-fry them. Food court versions tended to be single-portion meals; freestanding restaurants offered all-you-can-eat buffets. Legitimately Mongolian or not, they were fun for a while, then largely disappeared – a few remaining places are scattered throughout north Orange County.
Finding actual Mongolian food has proved comparatively difficult, but if you’re willing to drive to Los Angeles, Arag Mongolian Cuisine is offering a more authentic experience. As Mongolian music plays in the boxy, lightly decorated dining room – accompanied by video on a large television – you can order buuz, steamed dumplings with beef, chicken, or vegetables inside; deep-fried pirozhki beef pies; Mongolian milk tea served either as a drink or as a soup with dumplings; and lamb in various forms – either grilled, fried liver, or ribs.
The closest thing to what one would find at “Mongolian Grill” chains is a “Mongolian BBQ Plate” that places meat, fried eggs, and salad-class vegetables on a sizzling skillet. There aren’t any noodles, nor customization options; it’s a straightforward stir-fry that could as easily be served as Japanese teppanyaki.
Like all of the other dishes we sampled at Arag, its flavoring is mild – here, basic soy with salty and umami notes – and it’s obvious that the earlier food court and plaza restaurants just built on this foundation. A room temperature Arag salad, combining noodle-sized strips of tripe with pickled garlic, sliced carrots, cucumber, and bell peppers, is the most standout of the items on ingredients, textures, and flavors, though more pleasant than memorable in any other regard.
Wet or dry, the Mongolian dumplings are simple in flavor; the hot but neutral-tasting milk tea is in our view more likely to be enjoyed in a cup than a soup bowl. Arag’s pirozhkis are more notable for their large sizes and bready exteriors than their beef meatball-caliber fillings. Small dishes of shredded cabbage and rice are included with some dishes, more as fillers than anything else.
Even in its authentic form, Mongolian cuisine is a safe pick for pretty much anyone – it combines the lure of the exotic with recipes that sound more atypical than they taste. If that’s appealing to you, Arag is a fairly easy trip up from Orange County, with metered street parking nearby.
Stats
Price: $$
Service: Table
Open Since: 2021
Addresses
3012 Wilshire Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90010
213.378.0075
Instagram: @arag_mongolian_cuisine