Little Pan (Formerly Little Pan-Fried Bun)

Little Pan is one of Orange County’s most interesting Chinese restaurants, due as much to what it offers as how it has metamorphosized in less than five years time. When we first visited the shop in a small plaza mostly dedicated to restaurants, it was named Little Pan-Fried Bun, during morning and afternoon hours serving Shanghai-inspired buns and dumplings, plus varied northern Chinese dishes such as chilled meats and vegetables. At night, it transformed into 949 Grill and Pot Lounge, serving an entirely different menu focused on spicy meat skewers and hotpots. Over time, these two businesses separated and became neighbors, with Little Pan shortening its name and adding new LA locations.

The least delicious item we’ve tried at Little Pan is the one that’s most visually interesting: We found the rainbow dumplings shown above way more interesting to look at than eat, effectively just food colored and steamed with meat inside. By the time you arrive, they may or may not even be on the menu any more. Instead, focus on their seriously fantastic “house special,” half-steamed, pan-finished buns – especially the curry ones, but also xiaolongbao-ish soupy pork. Juicy and soupy inside with soft bun shells and crispy bottoms, they’re also found on Din Tai Fung and Paradise Dynasty menus, but at least as good if not better here. They’re served in quantities of six, and in the past included additional flavors such as tasty angus beef and purple yam with cheese.